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| 24 August | Rhodes | US$1=235Dr |
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Up early with a massive hangover, only 2 hours after going to sleep. Groan. It's the Efes beer, I know it. I had no time to recover, a shuttle swept myself and a few others out to the port and onto the hovercraft before I could say wastebasket.
45 minutes later, I was entering the first country I don't need at least an entry stamp for in my entire trip. Back into the EU! I teamed up with Hugh, Peter, Stacy, and Debra, 3 Kiwis and a Canadian. We got two rooms at a very nice pension, 2000Dr each. Greece is so incredibly expensive for me. Still, it is like being in a time warp, hearing and seeing Greece around me again. Back in time one year ago before all this world wander business. Rhodes is a very interesting town. Old walls, the palace, lovely avenues, tiny alleys. Towering over the old town, the Palace of the Grand Masters fits every stereotype I've ever had of a fortress. Huge stone fortifications, rooms inside filled with marble, and old art, it once served Mussoline as a summer home. Out front, the Street of the Knights is lined with tourist junk, but it is still quite impressive. Massive stone walls tower above you as you make your insectile way down the street. But dinner cost almost 3000Dr! Over US$10 for one meal! What!?! This is hard to accept. I feel very poor of a sudden... |
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| 25 August | Rhodes |
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We bought our ferry tickets for tomorrow. We must either leave tomorrow or wait unto Tuesday for the next ferry going our way. The others are going to Crete, but I can't handle culture at this time, so I'm off to Santorini. The only ferry that will take me there goes by way of Crete, 16 hours. Yuck. At least we're all on the same ferry...
We took the bus out to Falraki beach. Thinking to be adventurous, we all walked around the corner to the nudist beach. Gay city. There were many lovelies there when we first arrived, but they all left soon after. Guys kept checking us out, positioning themselves to be sure we could see them. Gross. Just ignore them... When it was time for us to leave, someone suggested a drink. OK. One drink turned into 4 drinks, plus snacks, plus free schnapps from the establishment. We didn't manage to leave until late. Falraki looks very good for night-life, but we didn't know how long the buses ran, so home we went. After a mediocre, pricey dinner, Hugh and Peter turned in. The girls and I wanted some action though, so we went out. I asked around for a good place and we were there. 1000Dr to get in, but it paid for the first drink. Good club, but it was still quiet at 11:00. By 12:00, though, it was pumping. All three of us were out on the floor. They were playing bad music, though, so we ended up leaving rather early. This is certainly not Ios... |
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| 26 August | Ferry to Santorini/Crete |
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We didn't get moving until noon today. We went for a walk about town, then decided to do the city wall walk. We can't go up until 2:30, so we all sat in the shade and talked. Debra and I wandered off to find a snack/lunch. We returned at 2:15 to find the others all had their tickets. When I went to buy, I found out that EU students get in for free. Since Debra was with me, they assumed she was Irish as well, so she got her ticket for free as well. Not bad. There was not much to see from the walls, but there was still a good view of the palace and town.
Then to the small beach right in town. I was not up for swimming, so I just sat and relaxed while the others swam off with their new swim masks. (They liked my goggles, so they bought their own). Back for showers, a few purchases, then to the port. No problem finding our ferry. There was only a light crowd, so we each had a bench. Now for our purchases: crisps, 3 bottles of soft drinks, biscuits, a bottle of vodka, whiskey, and peach schnapps. Whew. |
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| 27 August | Fira |
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I woke up this morning to a pleasant view. Debra lying next to me, Crete hazy in the morning light. The others were in various conditions. Hugh was grumpy and sulking, hungover. Peter was sitting off alone. Stacey slept until we arrived in Crete. Debra was cheerful, smiling. I said my goodbyes as the others disembarked at Crete. I was tempted to stay with them, but I just felt I needed to be alone for a few days. Too bad.
5 more hours to Santorini. We pulled in to a familiar scene. Nothing has changed in the past year. I was considering the hostel at Perissa beach, but instead, I decided to try to relive my days with Natalie, Terry, Linda, Eman, and all at the hostel in Fira. The hostel was exactly as I remembered it, it even had the same staff, who didn't remember me of course. Just as well, since we lot made trouble here last time... I even got the same bed in that horrible 40 bed dorm room. I was tired, so I didn't do much but write and have a couple chicken gyros at my favorite old place. The good restaurant near the hostel from last time had gone upscale, with only two waiters for over 30 tables. After being ignored twice when one brought around menus for others, I stopped a waiter and took a menu from him, over his protests. Then I couldn't even order my food. After an hour had passed and I hadn't even been able to order, I dumped my menu and stomped off. I was too hungry to wait around. At this point, they then tried to bring me back. It was a shame they ruined it, it used to be a nice small friendly place just last year, the lady who ran it treating us like her children with special treats... I was going to go out and party. I even bought a couple of beers from the place that used to sell the cheapest beers in town (no longer). But I finally decided that I was too tired for much. I'll sleep tonight, try again tomorrow... |
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| 28 August | Fira |
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I woke up late in the steaming hot dorm. Disgusted with my surroundings, I decided to hell with my dreams, I wanted comfort. And a shower! (The showers only run from 5-9PM here) So I found a very nice room with shower for 4000Dr (ouch) and moved out. By moving out of the hostel, I'm probably sealing my fate for the next few days as being alone. But yesterday, there seemed to only be a very unfriendly crowd here. Taiwanese who wouldn't talk to anyone else, French who laughed at my attempts at French, but wouldn't speak English, several very odd guys who just sat on their bunks and stared at you, and misc. others who only came in and left without even a hello. Whatever.
While moving out, I ran into one guy who had hung out with us last year. He said that Terry had managed to escape the police somehow. Also, that the Sting Bar, the bar where we drank for free for over a week last year, now plays only Greek music. The Blue Note is now the place to be. I guess I'll be there tonight... I need to just pull out of my terminal burnout somehow. Though it just doesn't seem likely to happen unless I'm with people, like in Rhodes. Hm. I wasted the day, then had my 2 beers with 2 chicken gyros and went out. At 10:00, things were still quiet, so I sat on top of the cliff and enjoyed the breeze. At 11:00, things were starting to move. I ended up at the Blue Note all night. I drank too much. I missed my chance with a lovely blonde who sat with me. I talked with Matt, from Montreal, who only just arrived from Canada (10 minutes ago). Everyone was dancing up on the bar. From time to time, I would look up at the lovely girl dancing above me. Later in the evening, she all but fell on top of me while trying to get down. As I helped her stand up, she squinted at me, trying to focus her drunken gaze. Then her mouth opened with shock, and she looked up at the bar, then back at me. "Could you see up my skirt?" Yes... "Then what color panties am I wearing?" she slurred again with what I guess was supposed to be a seductive look. It's a trick question, you aren't wearing any! She laughed, gave me a big hug, and collapsed on top of me again. And so the night went... |
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| 29 August | Fira |
| State of mind: drunk. Mood: Whatever. State: alone as usual. I wasted the day again. I decided to move out to Perissa beach tomorrow. See what it's like. Tonight, I got totally pissed as usual, but met no one except for Matt and Greg. I'm just tired, I can't get the charisma going. For now, sleep it off... | |
| 30 August | Perissa |
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Up and out. When I tried to check out from my room, I discovered a problem. I handed over two 5000 notes to the manager, expecting to get back 2000 in change. She looked confused, said "2 nights?" Yes. She muttered in Greek, then wrote on a card, 16000! What?! She now said the room was 8000/night. But you said only 4000 before! She didn't speak much English though, and just kept demanding more money. My Greek was not up to the task. Another lady there who did speak English spoke with her, then came back to me with, "The room is 4000 per person." yes, I'm one person, I told her that when I checked in! She was not being greedy, it was just a breakdown of communication. The book had said this place was 3000 for a single. Obviously she had gotten greedy in that way. But there was no way I would pay 8000 a night, even after the fact, so I dug my heels in. I couldn't get my change back, but eventually she gave up asking for more. So the room ended up costing me 5000/night. Damn.
Easy bus out to Perissa, into the hostel. Hm, 1000/night in another large (20-40 bed) dorm, or 2000/night in a 6 bed room with toilet and shower. Why not. I ended up getting my own room for the night, no one else showed up. Sitting out front drawing, I saw someone I thought I recognized. When I looked again, yep, it was Peter and Stacey! They seemed to have caught up with me. They didn't think much of Crete. We went to watch Pulp Fiction together at the bar across the street, then had an absolutely huge dinner for 1650Dr. |
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| 31 August | Perissa |
| Nothing. Relaxing nothing | |
| 1 September | Perissa |
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September already! It is really a shocker. Only one more month to go until it has been a year! Yikes.
I went out today determined to do something. I grabbed my lathi and hiked up to ancient Fira. It was a short but hot climb up a rough dirt trail to the parking lot (from Kamari), then another climb up to the ruins. Nothing too impressive, but there were good views up and down both Kamari and Perissa beaches. On one side, a black sand beach, on the other, a red sand beach. Talk about your contrasts! The ancients must have been real masochists building their cities up high like this. I know, it's for defense... I wanted to do more, so I went back down to the parking lot and climbed up to the monastery up on the highest point on the island. With my lathi, it was no problem, even in Tevas. Unfortunately, the haze spoiled what would have been a breathtaking view. I could still see all the way to Oia, and the crescent shape of the island. Within the center of the crescent, the volcano sulked, after blowing its top so many years ago. Back at the hostel, I drew the afternoon away, talking with people. At night, I ended up with two crazy Aussies and 3 fabulous looking (and friendly) American girls. It was a good evening. By the end, Michelle was asking me to join them going to Ios tomorrow. Maybe... |
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| 2 September | Perissa |
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Up very late. I couldn't face packing, so I'm staying yet another night I guess... I went down to the beach, to roast out the poisons from my system.
Back at the hostel, I spoke with a friendly Jamaican guy. He had some trouble traveling around Europe. In Germany, he was beat up by 4 skin heads. In Poland, he was chased by a gang of neo-nazis. People locked their doors, refused to help him as he ran screaming down the street. When he found a police station and ran inside, the police went out and started joking with the members. He was lucky to get away. |
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| 3 September | Ios | ||
1430Dr for the ferry to Ios. Again, it was a scene out of my memories. But something was not right, where are the people? Last time, the port was mobbed, the buses packed to overflowing, it was close to impossible to find a place to stay. This time, it had an almost abandoned feel to it. The girl next to me on the bus was here to meet her boyfriend, but she was supposed to be here yesterday. She had gotten on the wrong boat in Naxos and ended up back in Pireus! Whoops! I checked out a couple rooms in the village. I had my pick this time. Everything was empty. None were as nice as the place I stayed at last time, though, so up the stairs behind the tourist information again. I paid 5400 last time. I was expecting to have to haggle hard this time, but I forgot it was after peak season now. I got 2700 without even trying. It was a better room too, with a refrigerator. I hitched a ride down to the beach with a girl who gave massages around here. She told me that it was quiet even for September. I'll say. The beach that you couldn't find a spot to lie down on last time was almost completely empty. The difference was amazing. This place has a real autumn feel to it. I even got chilly sitting on the beach.
At night, I went back to the Dubliner, scene of past revels. I sat with 2 girls from Dublin and a guy from Glasgow. Erika, Claire, and John. It was a good time, but then out of the blue, John grabbed Erika, who he had just met at the same time as me, and started kissing her, which she fully cooperated in. I didn't see it coming, but they soon vanished together and Claire wandered off. The night's memories were very hazy after that. But after 10 pints, I guess that's understandable. Erika, before she got tongue tied with John, had been telling me about the big "Xmas party" which is held every 4 Sept down on the beach. It seems it's one of the big events on this island. Some people stay just to go to it. A kind of Full Moon Party, a la Greek style. It could be good... |
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| 4 September | Ios |
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Why is the bed spinning? Oh yeah, that's right. I had a bit to drink last night, just for a change of course. I woke up in my clothes, sitting up, with a cup of warm beer next to me and a cold gyros in my hand. How this came about, I haven't the haziest. My wallet said I must have had about 14 pints last night. I can remember the first 9 or 10, but after that... The cup I had here was from the Dubliner, so I must have stayed there, drunk myself into oblivion, grabbed a last one for the road, picked up a gyros somewhere, stumbled home, sat down to eat and just passed out. Truly pitiful, but I guess it's what I have wanted in a way these past few months. But it's pitiful I did it alone. Yikes.
It was after 11:00 when I finally came to and while I wasn't exactly hungover, the world continued to spin around me. At 1:30, I made a dash to the bank (it closes at 2:00) to get funds for further excesses, then tried to call STA in Athens for my Africa ticket. Tried was the key phrase. Mom had given me the entirely wrong number. Not even the city code was right. Eventually, I got it sorted out and talked with an agent. Nope, STA has nothing to Africa. OK... I then walked over to a local travel agent. She quoted me a rate of 260000Dr, about US$1100! Ouch! It's what STA back home told Mom it would cost, but I was hoping it would be cheaper here. It was, about US$60 cheaper. Hmph. I'm just going to gamble and wait until I get to Athens to buy. I hope it goes OK... Down to the beach for dinner. There was a Thai restaurant! Very yum. I only had stir fried veggies with garlic and basil, and rice, but it tasted like the real thing. With the surf pounding next to me, I could almost imagine I was back... I felt hazy all day, but I wanted a little night life, so I went to Dubliners again and had a couple. Others were talking about the beach party. It sounded good, but it didn't even start until 3:00. I'll never make it. Snore! |
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| 5 September | Ios |
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Up feeling much better. It is amazing what not drinking and going to bed early adds to your next day! Down to the beach for a (for me) very long roast. 4 hours of reading, swimming, and relaxing. Mm, very nice.
Back to my room, I showered and went for a haircut. I was already shaggy from the last one in Turkey. Sniff, no more flaming torches, flashing razors, bracing tonics. It was just a dull, boring, western style cut, but at least it was short and neat. Good enough. Out to Dubliners again at night. Talking with Rose and Kathleen, Aussies. But Kathleen has lived 13 years in Canada and her father is from Ireland, so her accent is just as confused as my own. We had a good time, but about 1:00, they both started yawning and rubbing their eyes, decided to turn in. Not yet for me. I wanted to dance! Over to Sweet Irish Dream. The place was absolutely packed, just like in peak season. I had a couple decent Guinness, then out on the floor, and on the tables, and ... Very good, I stayed out until after 4:00, when the place shut down. Talked with others outside, then stumbled home around 5:00. Good night. |
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| 6 September | Ios |
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I am definitely getting older. Now, it seems I can't even have a simple night out getting pissed and dancing without paying for it the next day. Groan.
I decided to apply my foolproof hangover cure: sweat the poisons out of my body. I bought a couple bottles of (ice) water, grabbed my beach gear, and took off. In the next few hours, I walked all along the coast and into numerous lovely and empty bays. In one, I found what Ios did with their trash and sewage. The small bay was surrounded by heaps of garbage and sewage was being pumped right into the sea. The rocks were covered in thick algae and the water was too dirty to see through. For miles around, nothing but garbage lying in heaps could be seen. It was a shame in more ways than one, too, because this was the nicest bay I had seen yet. Oh well. I picked a trashed bicycle (no brakes, no tires) out of the heap, hopped on, pounded down the hill to the next bay (whee! crash!) and continued on. Finally getting tired, I found a beach, stripped down and dove in. I had the whole place to myself. Suntanning, more swimming, climbed some nearby rocks, it was nice and peaceful. It was a long and tiring walk back. My mouth filled with dust from the dry land I walked through. My skin ached from too much sun. When I got back to my room, I felt stoned with fatigue and hunger, and just stared into space, too tired to move. I saw myself in the mirror when I came in. I looked like one of those body builders during a competition. Minus the competition of course, and minus the muscles. What I mean was that my entire body glistened with sweat. I managed a shower and dinner, but that was it. Still, no more hangover! |
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| 7 September | Ios |
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Up after 12 hours of sleep, feeling famished but fine. It was nice to have a completely healthy day for a change. Today on the other hand...
(Handwriting getting shaky) To the beach during the day, out to drink at night. At Dubliners again, almost immediately dragged into a drinking game with a bunch of South African guys and American girls. After many a "fine", we all stumbled over to Sweet Irish Dream, to dance the night away. The one available girl, Karen, was soon swept up by one of the guys. Still, good night dancing. Hope I don't regret it too much tomorrow... |
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| 8 September | Ios |
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I woke up in time for the ferry to Amorgos, but I just couldn't be bothered. I decided to just pass my time here and at Paros, even if I'm missing on a nicer island. Oh well. I figure I'll try to find an apartment on Paros so I can cook some meals. It would be so nice. I would love the chance to do some cooking and try to make some of those wonderful dishes I've eaten along my world wander.
While eating breakfast, I noticed that my left leg was very dirty. Then looked again. That's not dirt, it's blood! I vaguely remember some girl dropping her bottle next to me last night. I thought I was cut, but when I rubbed my leg, only beer was dripping down. I must have felt the wrong spot. I had a huge gash taken out of my leg. My entire calf was covered in black dried blood. Somehow, I still don't feel it. Weird. Down to the beach for my mandatory sun. I spotted Karen and Marc on the beach, but they were practically making out right there in public, so I only said hi. Excellent 'za at Pinnochio's for dinner, then hung out until 12:30, went to Sweet Irish Dream, stone sober. One Guinness and I was off. Fun time. In the middle of the night, a goddess came up to me, put her arms around me, and gave me a long deep throat kiss. Whoa! What's this? She immediately took off. I, of course, gave chase, but I couldn't find her. So I passed it off as just another drunken woman. I was totally sober and exhausted by the end of the night, I had been dancing for 4 hours nonstop. Suddenly there she was again! I got another kiss from her, mm, then out the door she went. Again, she vanished from sight. What was she, some sort of spirit? One of the little people perhaps? Anyway, it was a good night. Until the end, that is. Again someone dropped their bottle, this time from the top of a table. I got yet another serious gash that wouldn't stop bleeding. I needed stitches, but I couldn't be bothered, and took care of it myself. And I think that's it for Ios, I really should move on tomorrow. We'll see... |
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| 9 September | Paros |
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Yup, up and out. 2400 to Paros, 2.5 hours, no problem. When I got there, tourist information only had apartments 6000 and up. Too much for me I think. I went to look at a grim hotel recommended in the book, then decided what the hell, I'll go into one of the tourist agencies that have hotels. The guy there finds me a studio for 5000. Good enough. Nice friendly proprietor, clean place. Bedroom, bathroom, kitchen! Dumped my stuff and wandered. I'm not too impressed with Paros so far, but then again, that was my first impression of Ios...
I went shopping in the market. Yes, I'm going to enjoy this. Eggs, cheese, milk, bacon, noodles, rice, sauce, tomato, garlic, pepper, bread, butter, water. It totaled 5000, ouch, but it should be about 2 days worth of food, breakfast and dinner, so it is still cheaper than eating out. More fun too. I couldn't wait until later to fix dinner. It was the first meal I had cooked since leaving Singapore. I only made pasta, but with my added spices and veggies, it turned out very tasty. Bread and butter on the side and water, I was happy. The butcher's closed tomorrow, Sunday, but on Monday, I'm going to fix some real feasts I think. It's amazing how the little things can make one so happy... Now to see if the nightlife around here compares at all to Ios... I just can't afford to keep losing blood like this, the cut from last night still bleeding away. Looks rather ugly as well. Oh well. Another scar to tell the tale. Out at 10:00. Very ugly there too. I didn't see any lovelies, only Greeks and old tourists. Admittedly, it was still early, but still... I found the clubs. They look good, but they charged to get in, and of course they were still quiet. I found my mood changing from good but tired to truly nasty. Snarling nasty. Enjoy it while it lasts. Looking forward to cooking breakfast in the morning. |
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| 10 September | Paros |
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Excellent breakfast. 4 eggs with tomato, cheese, garlic, and bacon mixed in. Plus bread and butter. I'm happy. But sick. It seems my raving of past days has caught up with me. I've caught a bad cold. Hopefully, it won't last long. At least I don't have to move for a while... Aspirin and a litre of OJ to move it on, and my fixings for tzitziki tonight should scare it off. Just chill today. If I'm still sick tomorrow, I'll ignore it and do something.
Big dinner of huge bowl tzitziki, plus spaghetti and bread. But of course, no appetite. Damn this cold. Bed very early (8:30), bad night with mozzies, despite mozzie coils... |
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| 11 September | Paros, Parika |
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Visited the Church of Ekatontapyliani (Our Lady of the Hundred Gates). Nice. Nothing splendid or breathtaking, just simply an old, lovely church. It was a change from the grand cathedrals and mosques I've been seeing. A sign out front asked visitors in 5 languages to dress modestly when entering the church and not to snap flash photos. Of course, the place was filled with people in shorts and singlets, bikinis and miniskirts. And everywhere you turn, you're blinded by another flash. Bloody tourists.
Next, I changed into my bathing suit and grabbed a bus for Chrysi Akti (Golden Beach). My book said that it was Paros' best, but I was not at all impressed. Narrow, no surf, almost no room between all the umbrellas and chairs, and full of fat old tourists with bad sunburns. It was excellent for windsurfing though. I could see the more skilled folk going so fast, I bet they could beat some speedboats I've seen. Flying over the water, their sail almost horizontal. Wow. Talking with a Brit girl on the bus, she said Dubliners was packed about 12:30 last night. Maybe I'm healthy enough today... We'll see. I'm better, but still not 100%. Had 3 dinners tonight, I was so hungry. First, I ate the leftover spaghetti and tzitziki from yesterday. Then I splurged and bought syrup! It was expensive, but I really had a craving. I bought some cinnamon and jaffa bread. Barry back in New Zealand said that it makes awesome French toast. He was right! Yum. Then to top it off, a 2 egg "omelet". Whew! |
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| 12 September | Paros |
| Up at 9:30, after nearly 12 hours of continuous sleep. I was still sick, so just took it easy today. I took a 2 hour walk along the cliffs. I think I discovered where the gay men hang out. Once I was past Krios, the cliffs were just crawling with naked men, mostly fat and old. Whenever I found an empty stretch and sat down, before long some guy would come by and stretch out, making sure I got a good view. Ug. I think not. After the third time this happened, I gave up and returned home. | |
| 13 September | Paros |
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Still sick, but rested. More French toast, yum, then on to the beach for a few hours. I actually took a 45 minute swim around the point and back. Good workout, but I was totally knackered after.
Back, showered, to the store. Exciting day, huh? After dinner, I took a walk to see the sunset. Then, back to read the USA Today paper I got. Powell for president? More terrorists in France. NATO escalates strikes. Etc. |
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| 14 September | Paros | ||
Up at 8:00 Groan. This cold's just not going away! I'm still feeling totally sick. So what did I do? I rented a bike and rode for 6 hours around the island! 2200 for a nice bike. Wow, a bike that fit me. It didn't clank. All the gears worked, even the brakes worked! It could be a first. They also included a helmet, repair kit, and bottle. Good shop.
I limped back to my room, so exhausted, I couldn't even manage a shower. I needed food and more water. I scraped up some French toast (protein, carbohydrates, sugar) which barely gave me the energy needed to clean up. But now I have to return the bike! No! Sat and stared into space a little longer. Finally worked up the energy for the slow, painfully slow, walk back. I went to the beach and sat and watched the sunset. He watched the long slow Mediterranean waves come in along the sand, and waited and waited for the nothing that he knew was about to happen. As the time came for it not to happen, it duly didn't happen and so the evening wore itself away and the sun dropped beneath the long line of the sea, and the day was gone. We can talk of him more later on - this is just an interlude to watch the sun go down and to say that he was there watching it. [paraphrased from Douglas Adams] |
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| 15 September | Athens |
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It was an easy morning. One last large homemade breakfast, then Alexandros (the owner of the hotel) drove me down to the port. No sweat. Literally. 3350 to Pireas. It was going to be a long trip (5 hours), so I pushed to the front of the crowd and was one of the first ones on. I grabbed a life vest chest to stretch out on and sleep. Which I then promptly failed to do.
The GPO in Athens is open until 8:00 tonight, so I can get my mail. Yes! There had better be some this time! If not... Then to get my ticket to Nairobi. I can't believe I'm doing this. It will cost over a thousand dollars to get there. I'll probably spend close to another thousand while I'm there. All for only 2 weeks to climb yet another mountain! I wish Dad wasn't so excited by it. Then, I'd put it off a year or so until I had more time. Oh well. Money's just a way of keeping score. You're still well ahead of the game... The other thing was Francesca. I'm looking forward to seeing her again after two years. Only I don't know what will happen there. Will it be a hi pal, long time no see. Or a mi amore! Or what? We'll see. The last time I saw her, things were going well, but much has happened in between. I hope Sabine wrote as well. It will be good to see my old dive buddy again. Ireland's the clincher. If I didn't feel the need to spend so long there, I think I now have the energy to take on Africa. At least a bit more, like maybe Zanzibar and the Serengeti. I decided to skip Corfu (no one will be there, and I've had enough of Greece for now), so I have an extra week or so to play around with. It all depends on what order Dad and I do things. If we go to Kenya after Kili to do other stuff, I probably won't bother. But if Kili is the last thing we do, then he goes home from Nairobi, I think I'll stay on. Maybe. And if not, I'll just spend it with Francesca if things go well... The ferry arrived at Pireus early. From there, it was an easy metro to Omonia. Poste Restante has mail for me! From Kathleen, Maureen, Francesca, Sabine, Jeni, Russell, a package from the folks, and a note from Beth. What a haul! I moved into Festos, 2500 for a dorm. I found some stationary finally, and started responding to some good letters. In my room, I started to talk with Scott, a Canadian. He has done almost the exact same trip as I did, even Iran, which he got to right before they cracked down on the open market. When he was there, he was getting 7000Rial to the dollar! He was about 3 months ahead of me, and spent those down in East Africa. Told me about Lamu. He said it was the next best place he's ever been, after Raileh of course. It might be worth an extra week just to get down there... |
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| 16 September | Athens |
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I tried to get my ticket to Africa today. I optimistically checked out in the hopes I would leave today, then went down to Festos' related travel agency downstairs. Careena, a lovely lass from Kilkenny, was helping me. It was not as easy as I'd hoped. All the airlines closed their offices on Saturday, making her struggle to get information, as few places were computerized. She worked at it all morning, and found me a seat with Gulf Air for 200,000Dr that would get me there before Dad. But then, we had a problem: While I was going out to get the cash from the ATM (to avoid 3% charge for Visa) she tried to get me the ticket. No luck. It was 2:00 by now, and all airline offices were closed. Even though the seat was available, the only way I could get it would be at the airport, which would cost 30% more (I got a great discount from the agency). Damn. My only other option was for me to fly on Wednesday and get to Nairobi at 7AM the day after Dad arrives. Bad, but it was my only option... I called the folks with the news. Dad was not happy, but OK. I could hear him just buzzing with excitement over the phone. It's happening!
Some of the Irish working at the hostel invited me to join them for volleyball, so we went out to the park. First, a game of basketball. Huh, what's that? 3 on 3, full court. It was the first time I've played in over 12 years. I thought I did rather well considering. We lost, 5-3, but all three shots were mine. Yes, Mad Dog Jr.! Volleyball next, again fun stuff, though the sun was just scorching today. I was wiped out by the end. I still haven't eaten anything since breakfast yesterday, so I got some tzitziki to tide me over. Yum. I spent the early evening writing letters, the later evening totally drunk of course. I ended up not eating, but had 6 beers during happy hour. I went out with the others to watch what we thought would be a jazz concert in the park, but ended up as a light jazz, almost muzak group. Ugh. We all then split up, I wandered/staggered around the Plaka, downed a litre of water, and to bed. |
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| 17 September | Athens |
| Since it was Sunday, all the sites in Athens were free today. So, I went up to the Acropolis again. Very dense crowds. I had already seen it last year, and once was enough for me, but it was ironically one of the calmer areas in the entire city that I knew about. Mainly, I just sat and people watched. It was still cooler and quieter. This time, I took a quick tour of the Agora, which I had skipped last time. Interesting enough. Then I wandered the city. It didn't seem nearly as horrible as it did last time. I almost like it even. I guess it's all perspective... | |
| 18 September | Athens |
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Up early, I have stuff to do... Breakfast, then to bookshop. East Africa LP, 6000Dr. But I remember nothing about my reading about Africa, I need the book now, rather than have Dad bring one.
Next, back to Careena for another frustrating day of calling and waiting. Absolutely no other airline can get me there before Thursday morning. So that's it, Gulf Air it is. I still had a problem, though, I couldn't get a ticket. The wait list was just not coming through, systems were down, etc. Damn. Another day shot, not that I have much else to do until Wednesday... Writing more letters. At night, after another binge, a group of us went to see a free concert in the old Olympic stadium. A huge crowd filled the place, laser lights, happy people. But it was Greek music this time. No thanks. Talking with Caroline, a Quebecois from Montreal. She said my French has a Canadian accent, not that "orrid" French, snobbish accent. Fun person. Late night. |
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| 19 September | Athens |
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Up for one more try at a ticket. We still had no luck, but eventually everything worked out, and I had confirmed flights. Yes! I changed my return date to 14 Oct to give me a little more time in Africa. I am recharged enough to at least have the desire once again to resume, but now, I've settled on going home, and I'm looking forward to seeing Francesca, Sabine, etc. I took Careena out for dinner in thanks for all her help, she really went beyond to get me this ticket.
Back for a few drinks. I tried to call Francesca. Instead, I got a recording. I thought it was the operator, because she gave another phone number, but it was all in very rapid Italian, so I couldn't understand. I called again to try for the number, but I only caught maybe half of it. This was too expensive to keep trying! I called MCI, and got an Italian speaking operator to listen in. It turned out that it was an answering machine. "Please leave a message or try this number." But we were disconnected, so I had to try again. Very pricey message here. I finally left a message on her machine with the phone number here. Up to the bar for a chat with the others. The girl I met on the bus in Ios and her boyfriend, together again, were staying here. Suddenly, Martin runs up, "You have a call!" Hi Francesca! It was strange talking to her. Only the second time in two years! Wow. She sounded excited to see me, but couldn't give me a definite time to meet. I'll call her again when I return from Africa and we'll settle things. Roma or Firenze, it looks like. I went back up to the bar grinning ear to ear. Yes, I'm happy. I have my ticket (sort of), got my girl (sort of), things are falling together at last! Tomorrow, on to continent #5! |
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| 20 September | Abu Dhabi | |
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Up early to get out of Dodge. I packed, enjoyed a leisurely breakfast
9:00 But my ticket had still not arrived. Um. I finished my letters and sent them off. 11:30 Still no ticket. Em. I bought a pen, bought some biscuits. 12:00 Still no ticket. Uh. 12:15, Careena called me in. My tickets were ready, but they were at the Omonia office, and the messenger was elsewhere. Do you mind? Sigh, OK. Down to get it. Finally. Bye all! 160Dr bus to East Airport. A mad crowd gathered at the Gulf Air line. Not much was happening. When I got to the front, they declared my pack too heavy (7kg) so I had to check it in. Wait for boarding, then I board the first plane I have been on since arriving in Nepal, five months ago. Sigh. Oh well. First to Istanbul, then Bahrain, then Abu Dhabi.
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©Copyright Seán Connolly |
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