Thailand 2
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Well, Noi recognized me with the beard, and she was not amused at the change. Shave it off! Oh and she arrived late at the airport, and showed up just as I was finding a phone to call Noi. There was a farewell party tonight for Maureen, a Yank friend of theirs who had been living here and teaching English for two years. The economic troubles made it hard for her to get by, and so she was returning home to Seattle.
28 February Bangkok But first, I was to remove the beard and get a shower at Oh's place. Pui was waiting there when we arrived (they all had their cell phones), and Oh and she took off for the party, leaving me in Noi's capable hands to get cleaned up and drive there later. My personal situation cleared up, I was finally free to resolve something else with Noi, and it was some time before we joined the others.
At the party, Maureen and I spent a lot of time talking about what it was like living here. She loved it and had a wonderful experience, but was also very ready to go home. She had both good and bad stories to tell of her times here, but I was most interested to hear of her social experiences. She had tried several times to date Thai men. But her experiences completely reinforced Noi's experience with them. 99% were "jahshu." They never had just one girlfriend. They always had at least one more on the side. Noi's brother had two, her father at least 3 (two of them under 16), her grandfather even had a few. All of her friends were the same. All of her past boyfriends were jahshu. Maureen never lasted one month without finding out that her "serious" boyfriend had someone else. It seems to be a part of the culture, but the women here don't seem to do anything about it. Noi hated it, but just seemed to accept there was nothing she could do about it, except not to date. Maureen had nothing good to say about Thai men relationship wise. They were all sweet and romantic until you agreed to go with them, then all charm turned off, and they started looking elsewhere.
Leaving late from the party, Noi and I went back to her apartment. She was not going to let me pay for a hotel any more. When we got to her place, her brother was in her bed with his girlfriend (one of them). He often stayed here on weekends when she went home to her mother's house. We kicked them out of bed and onto a blanket on the floor. After a shower to cool off, we climbed into bed, trying to be quiet as her brother slept on the floor next to us. I don't think I slept 3 hours.
Noi prepares our lunch. MTV plays on the TV as she prepares rice, chicken, hot peppers (not too many!), and sundry other items into a delicious meal. I'm lying in bed now, exhausted by a long night, snacking on champor (rose-apples) like a decadent Roman emperor. She finished doing my laundry an hour ago, yelling at me if I tried to get out of bed. Reaching in my bag, I find a Valentine's Day card from her, making my day. Old memories barely arise to trouble. Blue eyes change and darken to black. More later...
1 March Bangkok We never saw the sun, staying in all day.
The life of a boy toy. During the day, Noi went to work. I passed the time until she returned, going into town, doing translations for her work, keeping busy. Her project truly interested me, and I learned much about the underground in London and Japan. At night, I was at her command. We went out, saw a movie, ate some delicious meals at a couple trendy restaurants, went bowling again, and had fun.
2 - 5 March Bangkok Mike's Thailand experience wasn't over yet. A friend of Noi's had looked at the photos I left behind when I went to Nepal. She saw Mike's photo and wanted to meet him. The wonders of modern technology allowed me to make the introduction, setting her up with a Hotmail account and writing the first email. Coming at you from around the world.
I had to visit the islands once more before my return to Reality (TM) after the mountains and cities. Being the romantic fool, I wanted to take Noi with me to say goodbye in a place like where we first met. I bought us tickets to Koh Samui, a round-trip ticket for her and a ticket onwards to Singapore for me.
Taking sick time, Noi played hooky from work. Tickets direct to Koh Samui included a 1000B tax in addition to the expensive ticket, so we flew into Surat Thani instead and took the ferry over. It was easy enough. An hour or so bus ride from the airport took us to the ferry. An hour ride over to Koh Samui, and another hour ride to Choeng Mon beach, worlds away from the horrors of Chewang beach. It rather reminded me of Haad Yao on Koh Phangan...
6-8 March Choeng Mon Beach, Koh Samui
It was a perfect location. A quiet cove, away from the road with only limited development along half the beach. Lovely white sand, quiet water, an island so close, you could wade over to it. The people were all resort tourists, averaging over 60 and rather fat being the rule, or younger with several kids in tow. But we could easily ignore them. We took a nice bungalow steps away from the beach and played the couple on honeymoon.
"Ah, if I had known this was my last time here I would have stayed a little longer - savored it a little more."
-Mary Anne Radmacher HersheyThe days passed far too quickly. We dozed in the shade, floated in the calm waters in each other's arms, ate our meals at our place, and enjoyed each other thoroughly.
Time for Noi to go back to work. With plans for the future, we made our sad good-byes. The last I saw of her, she was waving from the bus window as it pulled away from Nathon to the port. [We met later that same year in San Francisco, and are still in touch.]
9 March Chewang Beach, Koh Samui I turned away and grabbed the first songthoew that went by to Chewang. I found a room at Viking, the same place as last time and passed the time. Chewang was a nasty shock after peaceful Choeng Mon. Nonstop traffic, songthoews beeping, motorbikes buzzing past, and hardly any room to walk. The beach was still nice, with many lovelies lying out, but not the same.
At night, after too much drinking with some Swedish girls to get Noi out of my mind, it was out to the Green Mango Club for a long night of dancing, staying out until almost dawn before stumbling home on swollen feet.
I always regret it the next morning. Sitting in the restaurant on the beach now with dark glasses and my second bottle of water. The ocean is glazed silver, hardly a wave to disturb it. A girl bobs in the warm water, a dark silhouette against the brightness. Travellers discuss the excesses of the previous night and talk of distant places. "I'll see you next month in India!"
10 March Chewang Beach, Koh Samui A day of thought soaking in the sun. It's the end of another journey, and this time, I am eager to return "home." A new city, finding a new job, getting the future back on line after a temporary setback. This was no true travel; it was more of an extended holiday of easy living for a burnt spirit. There are still new places yet to experience. I want to travel overland around the coast of Africa, from Egypt to South Africa to Morocco. I want to explore South America. All the newly popular Central Asia countries. And on, and on. Perhaps someday I will meet someone I can travel with, and it will be another sort of experience.
On that note, an email from Noi had me missing the girl. She made it easily back to Bangkok, with no grief from her boss about her "sick days". When can we meet again? How about on Bali over Songkran? If I can find work in time...
At night, breaking my word to Noi yet again, it was time to dance. This night was more moderate. The crowd at the Reggae Pub was lively, and one drink got me on the floor. Not seeking female company works every time. I met Porn within the first 10 minutes there. She works at a local travel agency and spoke horrible English, but couldn't understand my Thai. Noi had said even she couldn't understand the people here very well because they have a very different accent and speak too fast. No matter, I only came to dance, not talk. Four hours later, I collapse with a litre of water and soon bid Porn goodbye. I should try to not meet women more often...
My last full day in Thailand. After a very late start, it was time to ogle some lovelies. Em, I mean, lie on the beach with dark sunglasses and work on my tan. After Nepal, my previously dark tan has faded completely, leaving me with the more usual pale carcass. I can't go home this way! I skipped winter again, have to rub that in at least a little! :-) Another solitary day on the beach breaking only for a club sandwich at noon, then another at 1:00 (It was really good!). All that sun left me drained though, so after an early dinner, I passed out while reading in bed. I woke hours later...
11 March Chewang Beach, Koh Samui
Grabbing a slice of pizza from a stall outside the club, I munched away slowly while strolling along the beach going home. The sun had not yet risen, yet the clouds on the horizon where molten with the coming day. I changed into my swimsuit and greeted the new day floating in the ocean. My exhausted body kept drifting to sleep in the peaceful rocking of the ocean, the madness from the previous night fading into brief images and sensations. Not another soul was visible on this fine morning. No one to disturb my meditation except the occasional friendly dog paying me a visit.
12 March Singapore Sitting now at Samui Airport, I find myself at what must be the nicest airport I have ever seen. Beautiful gardens, sculptures, terminals with gently winding paths between. It seems more like a 5 star hotel than an airport. People are friendly and smiles are everywhere. Even the immigration officials were casual. "Number 1!" my guard gushes when I pull out my passport. "Have a wonderful holiday!" as I walk off. Complimentary bananas sit in a teak boat. A lovely guard flashes me a smile as she spots me furtively sneak a second banana. Palm trees line the runway, and the departure lounge is surrounded by a small pond, lined with flowers. Red, pink, purple, white, yellow, orange, a burst of color. Abstract wooden benches are scattered on the bright green grass. A gentle breeze cools the departure "lounge" - a spacious open-air pavilion. Oops, that's the call, time to go!
Howl at the moon
(Postcard)Today is the start of the Full Moon party on nearby Koh Phangan. Thousands of tripped out travellers will descend on Haad Rin and party for 24 hours, absolute insanity come to life. If I stayed one more day, I could go there. If I stayed, the madness could continue. If I stayed, I might never go back. But today, I leave for Singapore. The moment has passed, the season has changed. The moon has set. This revel has ended, go in peace.
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